[Thorgs]

Yes, my car is the official "problem car" for SHO I've decided. This time it has to do with something else. 2 days ago I started my car at work and started making my way out of the parking lot. My car started stuttering like it was bogging out when I gave it gas. It's not the spark plugs because they are brand new NGK plugs and correctly gapped. They've been in for about a month (and I just rechecked them today and the problem remains). I have no idea what the problem is or where it's coming from. It happens in all the gears (mostly 3rd & 4th) and goes away after I drive around for a while. Any clues??

 

[ginyu6869]

Yes, my car is the official "problem car" for SHO I've decided. This time it has to do with something else. 2 days ago I started my car at work and started making my way out of the parking lot. My car started stuttering like it was bogging out when I gave it gas. It's not the spark plugs because they are brand new NGK plugs and correctly gapped. They've been in for about a month (and I just rechecked them today and the problem remains). I have no idea what the problem is or where it's coming from. It happens in all the gears (mostly 3rd & 4th) and goes away after I drive around for a while. Any clues??

Check your wire and map sensor, also tps.. Any trouble codes?

 

[Thorgs]

nope, no CEL, everything else seems to be running normal

 

[spoonNit]

dont mean to hijack the thread but im having this problem in my 94 ex coupe (auto). except... i changed my wires, plugs, fuel filter. and it went away for a couple days, and it only did that when i gave it gas although it would idle perfectly. now a few days later, its jumpin all around... idle or on the gas. dont know bout yours but ive noticed my problem is enhanced when its about 90 degrees or above outside....? any ideas? is your car manual or auto?

 

[ksniperfox]

check fuel delivery items(fuel filter/injectors maybe?)

 

[DrivinVtec]

id check grounds. all of them. then maybe replace the cap. sounds like fuel/ignition like stated above

 

[AllMotorOwns]

id check grounds. all of them. then maybe replace the cap. sounds like fuel/ignition like stated above

agreed.

check for fuel, spark, and all grounds. especially ecu ground. 10mm bolted to thermostat housing.

 

[SOHCACCORD]

sounds like a sensor problem to me mine did the same thing

 

[LSi-Rex251]

Sorry to intrude, but I have been having a similar problem complete with misfire and backfiring. I also have 2k-2.5k idle when stable. I have low-milage NGK plugs that appear fine when checked. The vehicle still bogs down and sputters out at idle and under throttle. I have CELs 1, 3, and 7-MAP sensor, TPS sensor and O2 sensor. MAP is news to me, and TPS reads somewhat accurately on V-AFC. As far as O2, I only have an AEM wideband wired only to UEGO gage and no input to JDMhondaparts-style chipped p28. My harness is pre-OBD with OBD-1 conversion harness at ecu. Dizzy and injector conversion has been addressed, although I may need to mention I had to remove material on Dizzy to allow enough adjustment for proper ignition timing. I believe that I need to install an OBD-1/4-wire/heated O2 sensor in exhaust and wire input to the ecu, just like stock. Am I correct in that reguard? How should I trouble shoot the TPS and and MAP codes and what sould be the symptoms of each malfunction? Thanks to anyone who can offer answer any of this for me and I hope it helps the thread starter as well.

 

[nycehonda]

allright guys i had the same problem, about three months ago and i did all of the things you guys have tried, and none of them worked. i saw this thread and thought i could help
pull your valve cover and check your timing belt. if you don't know how to check timing, i can explain. first pull your valve cover. second get your motor to tdc (top dead center) (to make sure your motor is at tdc find your number 1 cylander on the distributor cap and pull the cap the rotor should be in the position to ignite you number 1 cylander) then check your timing marks. your cam gear should say up at tdc and your timing mark on the crank sprocket should line up with the oil pump. if the marks don't line up your timing is off and that is why your car is bogging. i recomend buying a timing belt and tensioner and putting it on. lmk of this works. or if you need more help

 

[nycehonda]

Sorry to intrude, but I have been having a similar problem complete with misfire and backfiring. I also have 2k-2.5k idle when stable. I have low-milage NGK plugs that appear fine when checked. The vehicle still bogs down and sputters out at idle and under throttle. I have CELs 1, 3, and 7-MAP sensor, TPS sensor and O2 sensor. MAP is news to me, and TPS reads somewhat accurately on V-AFC. As far as O2, I only have an AEM wideband wired only to UEGO gage and no input to JDMhondaparts-style chipped p28. My harness is pre-OBD with OBD-1 conversion harness at ecu. Dizzy and injector conversion has been addressed, although I may need to mention I had to remove material on Dizzy to allow enough adjustment for proper ignition timing. I believe that I need to install an OBD-1/4-wire/heated O2 sensor in exhaust and wire input to the ecu, just like stock. Am I correct in that reguard? How should I trouble shoot the TPS and and MAP codes and what sould be the symptoms of each malfunction? Thanks to anyone who can offer answer any of this for me and I hope it helps the thread starter as well

if i were you the first thing i would do is while the car is running unplug the tps sensor if you have no change then that is the problem. and do the same with the map sensor