Ok, so the problem is that when I start my car when the engine is warm, it will run for 2-3 seconds and die. It seems to happen once in a while, but has gradually gotten worse. Has nothing to do with outside temperature, as it has happend in both warm and cold weather. The only way to start the car (and stay running) after this is hold the gas for 2-3 minutes or let the car cool off for about an hour. Today when this happened, I was holding the gas and the engine seemed to be stuttering very bad and the CEL came on. I dont know how to pull codes from this car, as I assume the blue prong used to jump for getting codes is in a different location. Car is a 2000 V6 with approx 32k miles on it.
bones_accord
ok, it sounds like you have vapor lock, not in the traditional sense. fuel is boiling in the fuel rail. fortunantly for you, honda does have a fix. if it happens after you go somewhere, shut the engine off, and come back to about 10min to 30 min later give or take some time(which is pretty much what you said - start it when it's warm) fix:
replace the fuel pressure regulator(it is updated to hold more pressure in the line so the fuel doesn't boil)
and
replace the pcm!! it has new fuel mapping data to deal with the increased pressure spec!! if you do it yourself - maybe $400 in parts. dealer
robably $600 total.
keep in mind there are dealer parts that are updated for this problem. the dealer knows what they are. aftermarket products may not be updated to fix this. the higher fuel pressure spec from the updated regulator increases the temp it takes for liquids to boil - in this case - gasoline. the new computer is programmed to decrease injector on-time due to extra fuel pressure. more pressure = more fuel delievered in the same amount of time, unless the injector on-time is decreased depending on driver demand. ANYWAY,
both of these parts should come in a kit. the parts guys should know what your talking about. i can pull up the tsb if you want me to. let me know.
to verify if this is indeed your problem, when the car is hard starting, go grab a wrench!! relieve the fuel pressure as best you can(open the gas cap) and take the fuel line off the rail. the second you crack the line fuel will spew out, boiling out. don't expect a fire unless your very careless. i've done this many times in the shop because we don't have time to spare. actually, don't do this, lol. it's risky.
you're code is most likely a misfire code of some sorts because of the boiling fuel causing mega problems on startup. autozone will read the code for free, and they might even clear it for you. p1399 (random misfire) and p0301 through p0306 are misfire codes. well, unless your verify the fuel is boiling by opening the line, you don't have much to go on. it's a common problem i see a lot.
if by some chance it is a different code - post it! we'll look it up. even if it's different it's most likely caused by this problem. injectors shooting boiling fuel can also throw a lot of sensors off.
replace the fuel pressure regulator(it is updated to hold more pressure in the line so the fuel doesn't boil)
and
replace the pcm!! it has new fuel mapping data to deal with the increased pressure spec!! if you do it yourself - maybe $400 in parts. dealer
robably $600 total. keep in mind there are dealer parts that are updated for this problem. the dealer knows what they are. aftermarket products may not be updated to fix this. the higher fuel pressure spec from the updated regulator increases the temp it takes for liquids to boil - in this case - gasoline. the new computer is programmed to decrease injector on-time due to extra fuel pressure. more pressure = more fuel delievered in the same amount of time, unless the injector on-time is decreased depending on driver demand. ANYWAY,
both of these parts should come in a kit. the parts guys should know what your talking about. i can pull up the tsb if you want me to. let me know.
to verify if this is indeed your problem, when the car is hard starting, go grab a wrench!! relieve the fuel pressure as best you can(open the gas cap) and take the fuel line off the rail. the second you crack the line fuel will spew out, boiling out. don't expect a fire unless your very careless. i've done this many times in the shop because we don't have time to spare. actually, don't do this, lol. it's risky.
you're code is most likely a misfire code of some sorts because of the boiling fuel causing mega problems on startup. autozone will read the code for free, and they might even clear it for you. p1399 (random misfire) and p0301 through p0306 are misfire codes. well, unless your verify the fuel is boiling by opening the line, you don't have much to go on. it's a common problem i see a lot.
if by some chance it is a different code - post it! we'll look it up. even if it's different it's most likely caused by this problem. injectors shooting boiling fuel can also throw a lot of sensors off.
I read the posts above, I have a 2000 Accord V6. And i am having a smimilar problem, its been couple of times now after a long drive. Once it started shuttering while driving and other times it failed to start. I let it cool off for a while, and its back to normal. I have my check engine light on as well and its been there for a while now.
Has anyone been able to fix the problem?
Has anyone been able to fix the problem?
Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit Installation Problem
I have just installed the fuel pressure regulator kit on my wife's 2000 V6 Accord to cure the vapor lock problem. The car won't start now. Does the new PCM have to have a software installation to recognize the key in order to start? The security system is smarter than I thought ! If this is the case, the kit will require a dealer installation?
I have just installed the fuel pressure regulator kit on my wife's 2000 V6 Accord to cure the vapor lock problem. The car won't start now. Does the new PCM have to have a software installation to recognize the key in order to start? The security system is smarter than I thought ! If this is the case, the kit will require a dealer installation?
Thanks, I had done all you suggested prior to installing the kit. The kit has a new PCM=ECU that has to have the dealer to flash with the security software so that the security system will recognize the new PCM. Now that the weather has been cooler, the vapor lock hasn't occured. I gotta reinstall the kit prior to hot weather so my wife won't trade the 2000 Accord in on a new one!
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
